Visiting

Zagreb in two days, or more

Zagreb is rarely the destination — more often a stopover on the way to the sea. A shame: it is compact, lively and unexpectedly green, a city where two days pass without you noticing and a week does not feel excessive.

What to see

The Upper and Lower Town, museums, parks, and the things people usually walk past.

Where to eat

What štrukli is, why Dolac is worth your morning, and why coffee here takes two hours.

2-day itinerary

An hour-by-hour plan for a weekend.

Day trips

Plitvice, Zagorje, Samobor, Varaždin — what fits into a day.

When to come

Spring and early autumn are the best of it. Warm without being punishing, green, terraces open, tourist numbers moderate.

Summer is hot and slightly empty: locals leave for the coast and some places close. The upside is space.

December is its own story. Zagreb's Advent was named Europe's best Christmas market several years running, and the city transforms. If you are choosing between beautiful and convenient, this is the beautiful option: accommodation prices rise and the centre is crowded.

January and February are grey and damp, and precisely when you can see the city's ordinary life without decoration.

See the city with someone who knows it

Guided walks around Zagreb, from the overview route to the food one.

Tours